Playing Catch UP!
Blogging for work has taken its toll on this blog but the Winter season arriving and my huge usage of other peoples blogs has spurred me on to update this one and post conditions and route info during the winter season.
Before I start That a bit of catch up will record the events since September.
Training for winter season started in October with a new Gym membership and some improvements to my home wall / gym / torture room.
Following a mix of routines from Training for Climbing and Will Gadd's book ICE and Mixed Climbing
The routine has seen improvements in my upper body strength and general gym routine and statying power!
The real test will be later on in the season to see if I have kept it up!
October saw a last couple of trad routes for the year up at Cambusbarron Quarry.
This also saw the first attendance of our photographer!! John who came along for the day!
I really like the quarry here and hope to be back in 2008 for some more exploring!
December saw the first away weekend of winter.
The first day was the drytooling festival part of Glenmore lodges 60th Birthday festivities!
And for the record the pull up effort was from me ( it was 18 not 16 ) and dave seemed in good health to me!
The next day looked promising for some mixed route in the norries and after not to late a night in the Glenmore lodge bar I teamed up with a chap called Mark who was at the tooling fest the day before to have a look in Coire and Lochain.
No photos from the day so these are pinched!
First Route : Ewan Butress Direct IV , 5
2nd Route: Hookers Corner V,7
Great Day out with a good number of teams in the corrie. We had a great view of a number of teams on Deep Throat and Gaffers Groove.
Great Start to the winter season.
The Next weekend was (winter) partnerless so I persuaded some rock climbers up to Newtyle Quarry for some drytooling practice!
Again we had our pro pic taker in attendance!
The day was a good day out a brisk walk in the morning followed by some tooling in the afternoon.
Dan had not been tooling before and found it great fun I think. I had a second look at Happy Hooker D7 on the happy hooker wall. Unfortunately it took me so long to find the third last crucial hook pocket that my arms had lost the will to pull me up to the finish. Next time should finish this rout and I am keen to have a closer look at Va Va Voom D8 on the same wall. One day I might make it into the tube and maybe later off the ground!
The Secret on Ben Nevis was completed by Andy Turner, Steve Ashworth and Viv Scott just before our visit to Newtyle.
What an insipirational route to start the season with some amazing photos and videos to accompany it.
A lot of my tick list of routes are old classics completed in the days when axes and crampons were very different to today. It certainly increases my interest when I can relate to an induvidual who completed the first ascent not on a personal level but know were the route is and remember reading about it etc.
The Secret is on my secret ticklist but i think will have to stay there for some time yet!
The week before christmas saw some promising reports from the Ben and I managed to make arrangements for climbing on the Thursday the 20th.
Unfortunately my partner didn't work out but conditions were really good for a Solo on the easier gully lines. I headed up Gardyloo Gully passing an iced up but v thin 0.5 Gully on the way.
The top of Gardyloo was iced but the ice pitch just after the chockstone was not in condition for a solo effort.
I retreated on good Snow/ice and after a short break headed round and up tower gully to the summit.
A great day out on the Ben and great weather to check out the routes on the indicator wall.
Over the Christmas Holidays I hope to get out for at least two days and will hopefully be back with and update sooner that Feb!
Before I start That a bit of catch up will record the events since September.
Training for winter season started in October with a new Gym membership and some improvements to my home wall / gym / torture room.
Following a mix of routines from Training for Climbing and Will Gadd's book ICE and Mixed Climbing
The routine has seen improvements in my upper body strength and general gym routine and statying power!
The real test will be later on in the season to see if I have kept it up!
October saw a last couple of trad routes for the year up at Cambusbarron Quarry.
This also saw the first attendance of our photographer!! John who came along for the day!
I really like the quarry here and hope to be back in 2008 for some more exploring!
December saw the first away weekend of winter.
The first day was the drytooling festival part of Glenmore lodges 60th Birthday festivities!
And for the record the pull up effort was from me ( it was 18 not 16 ) and dave seemed in good health to me!
The next day looked promising for some mixed route in the norries and after not to late a night in the Glenmore lodge bar I teamed up with a chap called Mark who was at the tooling fest the day before to have a look in Coire and Lochain.
No photos from the day so these are pinched!
First Route : Ewan Butress Direct IV , 5
2nd Route: Hookers Corner V,7
Great Day out with a good number of teams in the corrie. We had a great view of a number of teams on Deep Throat and Gaffers Groove.
Great Start to the winter season.
The Next weekend was (winter) partnerless so I persuaded some rock climbers up to Newtyle Quarry for some drytooling practice!
Again we had our pro pic taker in attendance!
The day was a good day out a brisk walk in the morning followed by some tooling in the afternoon.
Dan had not been tooling before and found it great fun I think. I had a second look at Happy Hooker D7 on the happy hooker wall. Unfortunately it took me so long to find the third last crucial hook pocket that my arms had lost the will to pull me up to the finish. Next time should finish this rout and I am keen to have a closer look at Va Va Voom D8 on the same wall. One day I might make it into the tube and maybe later off the ground!
The Secret on Ben Nevis was completed by Andy Turner, Steve Ashworth and Viv Scott just before our visit to Newtyle.
What an insipirational route to start the season with some amazing photos and videos to accompany it.
A lot of my tick list of routes are old classics completed in the days when axes and crampons were very different to today. It certainly increases my interest when I can relate to an induvidual who completed the first ascent not on a personal level but know were the route is and remember reading about it etc.
The Secret is on my secret ticklist but i think will have to stay there for some time yet!
The week before christmas saw some promising reports from the Ben and I managed to make arrangements for climbing on the Thursday the 20th.
Unfortunately my partner didn't work out but conditions were really good for a Solo on the easier gully lines. I headed up Gardyloo Gully passing an iced up but v thin 0.5 Gully on the way.
The top of Gardyloo was iced but the ice pitch just after the chockstone was not in condition for a solo effort.
I retreated on good Snow/ice and after a short break headed round and up tower gully to the summit.
A great day out on the Ben and great weather to check out the routes on the indicator wall.
Over the Christmas Holidays I hope to get out for at least two days and will hopefully be back with and update sooner that Feb!
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